Khaike Paan Banaras Wala: A Guide to Banarasi Paan

Few things say Banaras like paan. A fresh betel leaf is filled with fragrant ingredients, folded into a neat triangle and handed over — sometimes wrapped in a thin sheet of edible silver. It is eaten after meals as a digestive and a little celebration, and it was made famous across India by the song “Khaike Paan Banaraswala”.

Banarasi paan is known for its soft leaf and careful preparation; a good paanwala treats it as a craft. First-timers should try a meetha (sweet) paan: gulkand (rose-petal jam), fennel, cardamom, coconut and candied fruit, with no tobacco or supari. Just ask for it “sada meetha, bina tambaku”.

You will find paan stalls on almost every corner, but some, such as Keshav Tambul Bhandar, have served generations of families. Chew slowly and enjoy it — and please use a bin rather than the street if you need to spit, especially near the ghats and temples.

End a dinner near Assi with a meetha paan, then take a slow walk along the riverfront back to Om Villa Heritage — the ghats are at their most peaceful late in the evening.